A company driver was driving a crew alongside the railroad tracks two weeks ago, when one of the crew members told him to drive on the other side of the railroad tracks. It was dark that night and snow covered most of the ground. So, when the driver crossed to the other side and drove along the flat, snow covered “road”, he was very surprised when the van crashed through the ice into the drainage ditch.
Two weeks later, after trying a tow truck and bobcat with no success, a nearby landfill pulled the van out with a bulldozer. Unfortunately, the van will now need some expensive repairs and the driver has no work vehicle. This all brings up a very important question. Who was responsible for what happened that night?
Was it the crew member’s fault? He was the one who told the driver to go to the other side of the tracks. And if the driver had never been there before, he would need to rely on the knowledge of the crew member to know the lay of the land. And when you are hired to transport people, you do what they ask, right?
Was it the driver’s fault? Every driver is responsible to make sure the vehicle and it’s occupants are safe at all times. And every driver should use common sense. But it is difficult for me to blame the driver for doing what he was told especially under the circumstances.
So what is the correct answer? It is not always easy to know what to do in difficult situations. But knowing what happened to this driver, it isn’t as important to know who was responsible than to know what to do if you face a similar situation. Instead of doing what you are told, you might stop for a moment and ask a question. “Sir, are you sure this is a road?” Or you might say, “I am going to step outside and check the road before going any further.” And if necessary, you might go So far as to say, “I am sorry if it causes you a problem but I do not feel comfortable driving down there. You will have to walk from here.”
Most drivers wouldn’t feel comfortable causing a conflict. It is easier to do what you are told than to get into an argument. But I would imagine that every driver would also like to have a van to drive the next day instead of waiting 2-3 weeks while their van is being repaired. Think about that the next time you are asked to do something questionable. Your ability to say no may make a big difference. Be prepared.
Remember when the 15″ tires on Classic SAAB 900s looked huge? They were huge because normal cars came with 13″ tires. But it’s not like that anymore. Now that 16″ tires are the new norm for Honda Civics, it is more difficult to find 14″ tires for cars like my 1984 Pontiac Fiero. Even TireRack.com (which usually carries a huge selection) offers only one choice in the size 215/60 R14. With that in mind, I have begun to wonder about future pricing and availability of non-normal tire sizes for this car. Perhaps finding some used 15″ or 16″ wheels would be a better solution with more options for the future. But what rims can replace my 1984 Pontiac Fiero wheels?
As you may know, it takes more than the same bolt pattern to fit wheels on a car. You also need to consider the wheel’s bore size (the hole in the middle of the wheel) and offset (the distance from the inside mounting plate to the inside edge of the rim). So, if you can find a car with similar specs, this might just work.
Fiero Wheel Specs
A quick Google search will provide you with a variety of ideas. However, all ideas are not equal. Be careful what advice you follow. Even the answers on some Fiero forums are a bit suspect. The best information I found was at Wheelfitment.eu. Although they include some European only models, they list a number of North American models that match exactly. Here are the best options that have the exact bolt pattern, bore, and offset sizes:
||New Beetle 16″
There are a couple of vehicles that come very close to the specs. If you don’t mind an offset of 40 instead of 42, try these wheels at your own risk:
Almost Perfect Matches
||Passat B4 VR6
One other thing needs to be mentioned. If you are going to search the junk yard for a used wheel and tire combo, you need to consider whether the existing tire will fit inside the wheel well without rubbing. Thankfully, Tiresize.com makes things easy with a Tire Size Comparison Calculator. This tool will keep you from making some bad decisions.
Whenever I buy a new car, I like to see what kind of gas mileage I get. If the car has a trip computer that makes the test easier. But I still like to write down the miles on the odometer and fill up the tank to get an accurate reading. I have yet to do that with my latest acquisitions. The 1984 Pontiac Fiero is not running at the moment but is supposed to get anywhere from 29-32 mpg hwy with the automatic transmission. The manual transmission is supposed to get as much as 40 mpg. Wouldn’t that be nice?
The one that may be an issue is the 2002 Mercedes-Benz ML320. Fuelly.com says that four owners tracked their mileage and averaged 17.1 mpg. Apparently, the combination of AWD and a 215 hp V6 will have me visiting the gas station more often than not. Thankfully, most of my drive to work has a 45 mph speed limit. So, maybe it won’t be too bad.
All this makes me curious about your experience. How good is your gas mileage? Are you one of these people who coast as far as you can to save money? My uncle does that. Or are you the type that doesn’t care? As long as the car performs as it should, you don’t care what it costs. Let me know in the comment section below.
Chances are you may be thinking about selling your car or trading it in. But how can you sell your car for the most amount of money? Whether you sell it to a private party or trade the car in at a car dealership, you should consider a few tips before putting the car up for sale.
Clean your car.
Most buyers are looking for a car that looks good to them. Keep in mind that the first impression may be what eventually sells the car to them. So, be sure to clean the car before presenting it. A good wash and vacuum will go a long way in showing the next owner that you took care of your car.
Take good pictures.
Speaking of first impressions, your pictures can make or break the sale. Take nice corner shots that make the car look good. Hold the camera level with the windshield for the best angle. Be sure to make the car look good but also show any major problems so that the next owner is not surprised.
Research your car’s value.
Determining your car’s value can be done a number of ways. You can look up its value at KBB.com. Be sure to input the actual options, trim level, and condition. But remember that their values are not guaranteed. Look also at what similar cars are selling for on your local Craigslist site. Knowing what you are up against will help you to price your car appropriately.
If you sell your car yourself, realize that it will take time. Holding out for a big profit may prolong your ownership of the car. Price it below the competition for a quicker sale. If you decide to trade it in, however, realize that trade-in price is not the same as private party value. A used car lot pays less because they may need to make repairs, detail the car, and are in business to make a profit themselves.
Selling your car doesn’t need to be a hassle. If you take the time to prepare yourself and your vehicle, you will do much better than most sellers. A little hard work will keep you from a big headache. So get to work!
Sitting in the waiting area reading a 2012 edition of Road & Track, the article that caught my attention was “A World of Difference: Detroit finally ‘gets’ the driver’s car—what happened?” Most car afficianados know that despite their patriotism, European and Japanese manufacturers have been making better cars for a long time. But is this still the case?
A decade ago, we’d have said this was never going to happen; domestic cars might excel at Interstate cruising, but most were a disappointment when the pavement got snaky. We’d shrug and say it was cultural—Detroit didn’t get it. … But Detroit is paying attention. … When did these people put on specs and notice that cars sell based on how they drive?”
The author of the article, Kevin Wilson, lists a number of flops such as the 1981 Cadillac Cimarron, 1985 Merkur XR4Ti, and 1994 Oldsmobile Aurora*. He does list some highlights like the 1986 Dodge Omni GLHS and 1993 Ford Probe GT, but not many good drivers were available unless you include the Corvette and Viper.
Obviously, the article is dated. But consider what Detroit has been putting out recently. Remember the 2009 Cadillac CTS-V, 2013 Ford Focus ST, and 2012 Buick Regal GTS? These are serious contenders which have received good reviews across the board. Now all of us can’t afford to buy new performance models such as these. But it is good to know that US cars are being recognized once again.
The big question for me is whether the new American offerings will draw me back into the fold. While I am glad for the American resurgence, it will take a while before I gladly replace the Jag with an American car. Part of that is my budget but part of it is the reputation earned by poor quality US products since the 1970’s.
Ask most people you know to name a reliable car and Toyota and Honda top the list. Ask them to name a driver’s car and Europe wins again with the BMW 3-series. Here is my point. Reputation is something that is quickly earned but hard to lose. If you build poor quality cars, people will remember that for a long time. You know the saying, “your reputation precedes you.” If US manufacturers want to win back a bigger share of the market, this is a good start. But it will take some time to rebuild their tarnished reputation.
*I actually liked the looks of the Olds Aurora—especially the second edition. Perhaps its inclusion on this list is not warranted as ” the stylish and content-rich sedan did go a long way towards upping the perceived quality of American automakers” (Hemmings)