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Category Archives: Maintenance

How to Fix Foggy Windows

Posted on January 21, 2012 by Andy Rupert
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In the late 1980′s my buddy and I went everywhere in his 1972 Ford Gran Torino. But one day the fan went out and the interior of the windshield iced up. After scraping for a while, the only thing to do was drive with the windows down. On that particular day, it was not an enjoyable experience. But there was nothing else to do until the fan motor could be repaired.

A far more common problem in northeast Ohio is foggy windows during the winter. You jump into the car with your family and the condensation on the windows keeps you from going anywhere fast. It’s not safe to drive that way but who wants to drive with the windows down mid-January? There’s got to be a better way, but is there? Josh Sadlier of Automotive Forums gives three simple tips to keeping the fog off the inside of your windows. Click here to read his article.

Categories: Maintenance

1996 Lincoln Mark VIII : Leaking Air Suspension

Posted on January 6, 2012 by Andy Rupert
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We recently took in a 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII which looked as if the front suspension was missing. It looked as if the front tires were resting on the fenders — not good. Google the Mark VIII and you’ll quickly find that these cars had an air ride suspension with rubber bladders that were known to develop a leak. On this particular car, the leak must not be too bad because after you start the car the front end rises to the appropriate height. It takes a couple of minutes and then everything looks fine.

But what would it cost to replace the airbags bladders? From what some owners are saying, the replacement cost is somewhere between $1000 and 1400. But these same people also mentioned an aftermarket alternative from Arnott, Inc. Instead of replacing the airbags bladders, they offer replacement coil springs for $399. I’m not sure how difficult it would be to remove them, but it would seem to be a better long term option if they have to be replaced periodically.

This is the second Mark VIII we have had traded in during my time at the dealership. It’s a car that still catches my attention. Despite the fact that it looks like a stretched and flattened Ford Taurus, it reminds me of a Jaguar XJ-S. The interior has the same amount of space: most of the leg room is given to the front seats while the back would be best reserved for children or luggage. But the leather seats are comfortable and the interior layout is very nice. And the performance would be similar: Lincoln’s 280 hp V8 vs. Jaguar’s 295 hp V12.

I wouldn’t mind having one of these as an every day driver.

Categories: Maintenance

1999 SAAB 9-5 : Window Regulator

Posted on December 13, 2011 by Andy Rupert
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A few weeks ago, I attempted to fix the window regulator on my wife’s 1999 SAAB 9-5 wagon. After taking the door paneling apart and removing the bad part, I was able to keep the window up, but couldn’t get the new part to stay attached. After a trip to the local SAAB dealership, the parts guy confirmed that I had the right part. However, the fear of breaking things myself kept the door in pieces until today.

If you are not familiar with the inside mechanism of a power window, you might visit www.thesaabsite.com and look for window regulator. The electric motor attaches to a scissor-like mechanism called the window regulator. At the end of each scissor blade is a small, green, plastic wheel that connects to a slide at the bottom of the window. As the motor pushes the other end of the regulator, the wheels slide back and forth pushing the window to the correct position. It’s an interesting piece of engineering.

So … what was the problem? The problem was that the original green wheel had snapped in pieces and had become disconnected from the end of the regulator’s “scissor blade.” The end of the blade has a short stubby piece of metal that is supposed to snap into the center of the green wheel. On my first attempt, the green wheel would not snap into place and stay put. It would hold for a while but then pop out of place as soon as the window was rolled up a few inches. That’s not a good thing to happen when the door paneling has already been reinstalled.

Today, I decided to try it again. The first step was to grease up the slide at the bottom of the window. Once the slide was greased it only took a bit of pressure to pop the green wheel into the slide. And after carefully moving the power window switch to an appropriate position, I popped the window regulator into the green wheel. Easy enough but as soon as I tried to roll up the window, the regulator immediately popped out of the wheel. Hmmm … it must need more pressure to pop the thing in completely. But to get a pair of Channel Locks into position, the window had to be lowered to the bottom opening of the door. A quick squeeze with the pliers popped it into place for good. Hurrah!

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If you’d like step by step instructions, watch this video by Eric the Car Guy:

Categories: Maintenance, SAAB

QOTD #17 : Why don’t you recommend Asurion Roadside Assistance?

Posted on November 19, 2011 by Andy Rupert
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Our AT&T mobile phone family plan comes with a $2.99/mo per individual option for roadside assistance. Asurion, the company that provides the service, describes itself as “the largest global provider of wireless handset insurance and wireless roadside assistance programs.” Sounds good, doesn’t it? Unfortunately, Asurion’s service in our area has been rather poor. My wife and I have called for service three times and have not had very good results.

  1. Mentor, Ohio — When our Chrysler minivan’s brake line broke, we called Asurion and a tow truck arrived within one hour. That was good.
  2. Painesville, Ohio — When the Chrysler minivan’s transmission finally died, I waited over two hours and was reminded several times that it would be only 30 more minutes. The truck never arrived and I eventually pushed the van myself for a mile! Thanks alot! That was very bad.
  3. Painesville, Ohio — When our SAAB wagon got a flat tire today, my wife waited over two hours and the truck never arrived. She was repeatedly told that the truck would arrive in “another” 15 minutes. I was working at the time and eventually called a friend to change the tire. Thanks alot! That was very bad.

When asked about the problem, the Asurion rep told me that they contract with only certain local companies. During the second incident, they called a company in Kirtland, Ohio which is nine miles away from where I was located. I know of several local towing companies in Painesville, but Asurion doesn’t seem to have a contract with any of them. In any event, it was very inconvenient to wait over two hours both times.

I know what you are thinking. “What do you expect for $2.99/mo?” I expect the company to keep it’s end of the bargain no matter what the cost is. And if you think things through, Asurion’s coverage plan is not as cheap as you think because both Sharon and I are charged $2.99/mo. The total annual premium is $71.76. That’s about the same price as a dual membership with AAA would be. In any event, my experience with Asurion in the Painesville area has been very poor. If you are considering adding Asurion to your phone bill, you may want to reconsider unless you have more than two hours available when bad things happen … in a bad neighborhood … during a snow storm … or at night far from home.

I do not recommend Asurion’s Roadside Assistance plan.

Categories: Maintenance, Question of the Day

1999 SAAB 9-5 Wagon : Passenger Door Window Won’t Roll Up

Posted on November 1, 2011 by Andy Rupert
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After a 3 hours road trip, our newly acquired 1999 SAAB 9-5 developed a minor problem. The passenger front door window would not roll up. And at 4:30 pm, nobody was available to look at it. So, I used Morley Library’s copy of AllData for instructions on how to take the door paneling apart. It wasn’t very helpful with instructions like “remove the door trim,” (and how do you do that?) but it did give me the incentive to start tearing things apart.

Maybe the instructions weren’t so dumb after all. The trim and door panel came off easily. And once the “water separator” was removed from the door, Jefferson and I found that one of the window regulator bushings had cracked apart. These are the plastic wheels that connect the bottom of the “scissors” to the slides on the bottom of the window glass. Not having one available to replace it, we super-glued what we could find back together.

After greasing the slides generously, I attempted to attach the window. The hardest part was getting the glass in the front and rear slides while getting the bushings into the slides. (Can you tell it’s kinda hard to describe?) The key was getting the glass in the guides before attaching both bushings. After several attempts, I took a walk to calm down. Shortly thereafter it all slipped together nicely.

Then with the help of Trenton and Josiah (a friend of the family), we got the door put back together. The trim snapped back into place. The door handle was reattached. The speaker was bolted back on. Everything was perfect … until I tested the power window again. The bushing waited until everything was back together to break again. So, I guess we’ll be without a window until the new bushings arrive. Thankfully, I’ll know how to do it next time and it shouldn’t take as long.

Categories: Maintenance, SAAB

1966 Corvair : Fuel Hose Repair

Posted on August 9, 2011 by Andy Rupert
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The Corvair developed a fuel drip a while ago that seemed to go away but would always appear as soon as the tank was full. Here’s what happened. The fuel line between the tank and engine is connected to the tank by a rubber hose. At one point, tightening the hose clamps stopped the drip but shortly later it would came back. Today was my day to fix this problem.

Not having a siphon, I disconnected the old hose and drained the contents into two gas cans. (That was nice as one of our other cars needed some gas.) Then I took a bit of the hose down to the local NAPA store. For $1.26, I had a foot of 3/8” fuel injector hose that I attached with little difficulty. But after tightening things down, the hose leaked at both ends!

Back to NAPA I walked for the next size smaller hose. This time I purchase a 5/16” hose and appropriate hose clamps. This seemed to be a no-brainer. But after attaching the hose and double clamping it on each end, the leak was worse than before! Can you guess what happened? Yep, it was the steel lines on both ends. A tiny hole in each was spurting out the contents of the gas tank. Not good.

After draining the tank for the third time, I dried off the steel lines and examined them. My plan was to cut them off at the leaking point. But just to be sure, I pulled down the center under cover that covers the center of the car’s duct work, linkage, and lines. (That also gave me the opportunity to paint that cover.) But back to the repair. It would do no good to attach a hose to a line that was leaking further back. Happily, the line was not leaking anywhere else.

So, with the help of a hacksaw, I trimmed the steel fuel lines back and made my final trip to NAPA. (Mike, the guy behind the counter, said I could come back as often as I wished.) This time I bought two feet of 5/16” hose just to be sure. But the extra hose was not necessary. The new hose fit perfectly and is secured with no drips at all. Hurrah!

Total cost: $8.67 :-)
Total time: 6 1/2 hours :-(

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Here’s what the car looks like as of today.

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Categories: Corvair, Maintenance

1966 Corvair : Sync Carburetors

Posted on July 19, 2011 by Andy Rupert
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I tried syncing the carbs today. I followed the online instructions and used the unisync tool but now it’s revved up real high. What did I do wrong?

  1. I disconnected the throttle connecting plate which connects both carbs.
  2. I disconnected and plugged the vacuum advance to the distributor.
  3. I dialed in each idle screw and back out 2 turns.
  4. I dialed in each mixture screw and back out 2 turns.
  5. I used the unisync to measure the air flow into each carb.
  6. I adjusted the idle speed to match the air flow.
  7. Once matched, I attached the throttle plate and re-attached the vacuum advance.

As soon as I started it up, the RPMs were much higher than usual. So much so that when I let out the clutch the car leaps forward. What did I do wrong?

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Categories: Corvair, Maintenance

Corvair: How to Clean Your Carburetor

Posted on June 27, 2011 by Andy Rupert
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I’m very interested in finding out why our 1966 Corvair stalled on the way to work about a week ago. According to this article, stalling and poor performance may be due to carburetor problems.

Sooner or later, the Corvair owner will need to clean or maintain the 2 or 4 carbs on their engine. Even [though] these carbs are basic when compared to carbs 15-20 years later, they still require tuning or cleaning. To ignore this chore is to want idle problems or acceleration issues that may suddenly, and without warning, stall you at a major intersection or worse, cause an accident because the acceleration put you in Harm’s Way suddenly.

I’ve taken a few days off work and am hoping to replace my old carbs with two rebuilds I purchased from an eBay seller. I will keep you posted a to how that turns out.

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Categories: Corvair, Maintenance

1966 Corvair : Carb Problem?

Posted on June 19, 2011 by Andy Rupert
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After replacing the rear shocks on my 66 Corvair 500, I ran into some problems with the way the car runs. After a trip to a local mechanic, I was told the best course of action was replacing the carburetors. I found and purchased two nicely rebuilt Corvair carburetors on eBay. I’ll let you know if they did the job in a couple of weeks.

This afternoon, I found a good article on Corvair carburetor problems. Corvair Underground is a parts supplier that’s been around for a while. So, it’s a reputable source of information. One of the things they noted was that supposed carburetor problems often turn out to be something else.

If you still can’t solve your carb problems – then – are you sure the problem is your carbs? The fact is, over 1/2 of the carb “problems” that we hear about turn out to be something else – most often distributor problems. We always suggest checking the distributor out FIRST before you even do anything with the carbs. Bad points or condenser – worm points plates and distributor bushings are quite common and could fool you into thinking you have carb trouble.

The mechanic who worked on my car checked over the whole system. He pulled, cleaned, and gapped all the plugs, set the points, and set the carb settings. I had already replaced the cap and rotor. So, I’m thinking it probably is the carburetors. The driver’s side carb had a spring holding the butterfly valve open wide. I’m pretty sure that wasn’t the way it was designed to work! In any event, I’m looking forward to getting this car running well enough for a road trip!

Categories: Corvair, Maintenance

1966 Corvair 500 : Gas Leak

Posted on June 14, 2011 by Andy Rupert
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For the past week, I have been contemplating what to do about a pesky problem. The Corvair had developed a persistent fuel leak where the sending unit attaches to the tank. One repair shop told me it was wet there and at the metal fuel line which runs through the heat exchanger. With no guesstimate as to how long it would take to fix the leak, I decided to figure things out myself. Am I ever glad that I did!

Today, I drove the car up on my personal car ramps and took a look for myself. All along I was thinking that the leak was coming from the sending unit gasket. But it wasn’t; it was something very simple. When I crawled under the car, I noticed that the leak was coming from a hose clamp near the sending unit. On my car, a rubber(?) hose connects the sending unit to the steel fuel line to the engine. All I did was tighten the hose clamp and the drip disappeared. That’s all it took!

Hurrah!

P.S. Do you know what dripping gasoline does to an asphalt driveway? Yikes!

Categories: Corvair, Maintenance
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